Sariska is a huge tiger reserve in Rajasthan, 40 kms off the NH-8, 210 kms from Delhi. Getting there from Delhi by road is very simple – down NH8 towards Jaipur, cross Behror and Kotputli and 40 kms from Kotputli take a sharp left at Shahpur. Follow the main road to cross Viratnagar (after about 18 kms), then Thana Ghazi, and after about 7 more kms you come across a circular in the road – take a right and Tiger Den is to your left.
The reserve used to have tigers but there have been no sightings since about 5 years. There are supposed to be Leopards, Jackals and Hyenas but you probably need to have a longer trip and wait patiently in the right areas.
Enroute to Sariska, after turning left from Shahpur

Options for staying are the Tiger Den resort right at the entrance of the park, and the Sariska Palace. Tiger Den, where we stayed is surprisingly well maintained and comfortable for a Government resort – the food was great too. The rooms were Rs 2350 per double AC room or Rs 1500 per double non-AC (but w/ cooler) room. The rooms are big and spacious – so you can just get extra beds for Rs 575 each. There are 60 rooms and while it was near empty at this time (May) of the year, you can get a room reserved at the Rajasthan Tourism office in Bikaner House, Pandara Road New Delhi. The hotel arranges a jeep for the forest tours too at Rs 815 per trip – but reach early so you have the time to visit the scattered spots of interest, plus hope for a cooperative guide (and not like the 70 year old we got
). You also pay Rs 25 for entrance tickets and Rs 200 if you have a video camera, which the jeep driver will arrange for you.
Tiger Den resort

Boards inside the Tiger Den resort

We first went straight to Kankwari Fort – I think a good 18-20 kms from the entrance, and through some really bad terrain (yea no road at all). But the fort turned out to absolutely worth it.

Just before the fort, the area clears up and acquires a very ‘desert-y’ look – with palm trees and sand plains. There’s also a small village at the foot of the fort – with no electricity and 2 solitary hand pumps. Our driver told us that those people were used to not taking a bath for 6 months at a time, given the shortage of water.
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Two interesting things about the fort’s structure – one, each floor of the fort actually appears to be just a cut in the ground, in the sense that any floor is not the ceiling of the floor below it, but on hard ground – the whole fort being made in a step like fashion. Second, from the top, the various steps seem to be in very accurate alignment. While at first the fort appears to be in the most isolated of places, it becomes obviuos from the top that its located strategically in a central hill that is surrounded by a valley, that is encircled by high mountains – making the fort very impregnable.
On the way there are also some interesting rock formations.

The authorities have created artificial water holes in the forest, where the animals (read Sambhar, Neelgai, Deer, Peacocks) flock. They’ve adjusted so well to humans that they (animals, not authorities) hardly flinch a muscle when a jeep passes.
Don’t expect any tigers now of course, and even a Leopard spotting is probably happening only if you stay on during the sunset or may be early in the morning, and at the right place if you have the permits. We did see a zillion deer and peacocks however. Thankfully the forest, though dry, was denser than Rajaji National Park, and more exciting.

After Kankwari fort and a trip through the forest we reached Pandupol temple. Right before the temple, there are water holes in rocky palmtree lined ‘oases’ – right out of a Jungle book scene and probably a good area to spot a leopard.



You can find some food and drinks at the temple. The real thing however is a 1 km trek from the temple to the Pandupol Gorge – a hole in the hill that according to legend was made by Bheema from Mahabharata. Unfortunately we were too late, and our uncooperative guide refused to give us the 25 mins to walk to that spot. We were also told we’d get bitten by bees at this time of the year. Vehicles aren’t allowed up there since the road isn’t good.
After Pandupol we made it back to the resort, had a good buffet dinner, great lime juice, and sat outside in the lawns during dark.
With 4 people, by road from Delhi, 1 night in the AC room at Tiger Den, cost us about Rs 2000 apiece. Other links to Sariska: link 1, link 2, link 3 (with lot of detail).
Having more time on my hands, getting the right guide, and going at a better time of the year (Sep/Oct?) is what I need to remember to do when I redo this trip (and also Rajaji!)!!!